Training:Drafting Course - Basic Shirt & Blouse Draft Lesson
Tools Used in this Lesson
- Move Point Tool
- Multi Move Tool
- Extend in Parallel Tool
- Add Fullness Tool
- Arc Tool
- Smooth Tool
- Compare Length
- Begin with Basic Front, Back, and Sleeve Bodice Patterns. ( Download the basic patterns from here)
Make sure that your non-grade points hidden ( Click Shift+0 to hide them)
- Front piece - Extend Front shoulder in ½” : Select Move Point (Hit M key for a quick access to the tool) , click on shoulder point and move by keeping line at same angle, type in ½” in distance field.
- . From armhole, square down ¾” and out ¾” – select Move Proportional (Hit the CTRL-M key for a quick access to the tool) and highlight the segment from dart point to armhole, drag the tool down and out, type in X=-¾”, Y=-¾”
- .Lengthen center front from waist down 6”, square across and up to side seam and up - Drag a Guide Line from the side ruler and drop on armhole point to assist on where to click while drafting. Select Draft (D) draw line from center front, down 6”, across to Grid line and up to armhole
- Click to Select Side Dart Tip and Select the Cut Dart command from Darts sub-menu under the tools menu.
- Back – Extend Back shoulder ½” : Select Move Point (M) , click on shoulder point and move while keeping the line at same angle, type in ½” in distance field. Same as the front piece above.
7.Move Back Armhole Notches out ¼” : select Multi Moveby hitting the Q key on your keyboarded , drew box around the notches, drag it out and type in box ¼”.
8.From armhole, square down ¾” and out ¾” – select Move Proportional (CTRL-M), highlight the segment from dart point to armhole, drag down and out, type in X=-¾”, Y=-¾”
9.Lengthen center Back - from waist move down 6” square across and up to side seam and up - Drag a guideline from the side ruler and drop on armhole point to assist on where to click while drafting. Select Draft (D)tool and draw line from center front, down 6”, across to guideline and up to armhole.
10. Build Pieces – Select Trace Segments and choose all segments, clockwise around piece to make pattern for front and back, make sure to click on each line you want, the blue X will show you the progress of the drape.
11.Create Side Dart on Front – Mark with drill hole the dart tip to save location. Select Dart, click on dart legs, and click inside to dart length. Click on new dart tip and move back to original position. Adjust Dart tip and make first leg shorter 12.Measure front and back side seams and adjust front side dart to make equal – Open Compare Length Window. Select Front side seam, +, Select Back Side Seam, -. Notice difference of front from back
13.Select Dart, select tip of side dart and rotate difference of front side dart to armhole, select tip of armhole dart, delete.