Training:Drafting Course - Basic Shirt & Blouse Draft Lesson

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Draft a Basic Shirt
Course Name -Drafting Course Lesson Duration - 60' Default Settings - Default Setting for this lesson
Description of Lesson - This Lesson will teach how to use OptiTex PDS tool to create a basic shirt pattern. This Lesson uses OptiTex PDS Version 10.

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Lesson Overview

Contents


Tools Used in this Lesson

  1. Move Point Tool
  2. Multi Move Tool
  3. Extend in Parallel Tool
  4. Add Fullness Tool
  5. Arc Tool
  6. Smooth Tool
  7. Compare Length

Begin Lesson

  1. Begin with Basic Front, Back, and Sleeve Bodice Patterns. ( Download the basic patterns from here)
Your basic patterns
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Make sure that your non-grade points hidden ( Click Shift+0 to hide them)
  1. Front piece - Extend Front shoulder in ½” : Select Move Point (Hit M key for a quick access to the tool) , click on shoulder point and move by keeping line at same angle, type in ½” in distance field.
if the move point dialog box is not shown - hold down the ALT key while dragging the point

  1. . From armhole, square down ¾” and out ¾” – select Move Proportional (Hit the CTRL-M key for a quick access to the tool) and highlight the segment from dart point to armhole, drag the tool down and out, type in X=-¾”, Y=-¾”
if the move segment box is not shown - hold down the ALT key while dragging the point

  1. .Lengthen center front from waist down 6”, square across and up to side seam and up - Drag a Guide Line from the side ruler and drop on armhole point to assist on where to click while drafting. Select Draft (D) draw line from center front, down 6”, across to Grid line and up to armhole
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  1. Click to Select Side Dart Tip and Select the Cut Dart command from Darts sub-menu under the tools menu.
  2. Back – Extend Back shoulder ½” : Select Move Point (M) , click on shoulder point and move while keeping the line at same angle, type in ½” in distance field. Same as the front piece above.
if the move point dialog box is not shown - hold down the ALT key while dragging the point

7.Move Back Armhole Notches out ¼” : select Multi Moveby hitting the Q key on your keyboarded , drew box around the notches, drag it out and type in box ¼”.

if the move points and internals dialog box is not shown - hold down the ALT key while dragging the tool

8.From armhole, square down ¾” and out ¾” – select Move Proportional (CTRL-M), highlight the segment from dart point to armhole, drag down and out, type in X=-¾”, Y=-¾”
9.Lengthen center Back - from waist move down 6” square across and up to side seam and up - Drag a guideline from the side ruler and drop on armhole point to assist on where to click while drafting. Select Draft (D)tool and draw line from center front, down 6”, across to guideline and up to armhole.

Basic Shirt & Blouse Draft Lesson 9.png

10. Build Pieces – Select Trace Segments and choose all segments, clockwise around piece to make pattern for front and back, make sure to click on each line you want, the blue X will show you the progress of the drape.

Basic Shirt & Blouse Draft Lesson 10.png
Basic Shirt & Blouse Draft Lesson 11.png

11.Create Side Dart on Front – Mark with drill hole the dart tip to save location. Select Dart, click on dart legs, and click inside to dart length. Click on new dart tip and move back to original position. Adjust Dart tip and make first leg shorter 12.Measure front and back side seams and adjust front side dart to make equal – Open Compare Length Window. Select Front side seam, +, Select Back Side Seam, -. Notice difference of front from back

Basic Shirt & Blouse Draft Lesson 12.png

13.Select Dart, select tip of side dart and rotate difference of front side dart to armhole, select tip of armhole dart, delete.

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