3D:Stitch Properties

The Stitch Properties Pane is part of the 3D Properties Pane. It's a dynamic window, meaning its content changes according to the selected object.

Icon & Location

• (8)
• Menu: View
• Toolbox:Views

Dialog

1. Stitch Properties Pane

Stitch Properties

Name

The Name field is where you can assign a name for the selected stitch.
All created stitches are automatically assigned with unique names composed of consecutive numbers (Stitch1, Stitch2 etc.).
The names of the stitches are presented in the Stitches window.

3. Stitches window - descriptive names are easier to find

Description

Option to add a short description to a stitch.

Code

Option to add a descriptive Code to the stitch. The codes of the stitches are presented in the Stitches window.

3. Stitches window - descriptive names are easier to find

Width

Stitch width is 0.15 cm by default. The Width stands for the width of the surface to be covered with the stitch's shader.

4. Stitch Width = .25

5. Stitch Width = 1

6. Stitch Width = 0

Offset

The Offset field is enabled for Stitches and Buttons. It defines the distance above or under its original point. The default Offset value is 0.2 cm.
In some cases, there's a need to shift a button's location further more (i.e.: 0.7 cm), so it will not collide with the cloth.
This field can also be useful in minus values (i.e.: -0.2 cm), when a Topstitch need to appear on the reverse side of a collar or lapel.

7. Offset value for the button is 0.2 cm

8. Offset value for the button is 0.7 cm

Flipped

Use Flipped definition to turn over the stitching direction once a stitch is reversed.

9. Reversed Stitch

10. After Flipped was selected

Folded

Define a stitch (draft line) as Folded when you require a crisp iron line such as creases, facings, pleats, or lapels.

Tailored trousers with ironed creases.

11. The selected stitch (in red) is defined as folded and represents an ironed crease

12. Notice the ironed crease at the front of the trousers

Jumper with lapels.

13. Selected stitch (in red) is a fold line

14. Fold line stitch is not Folded - soft fold line

15. Fold line stitch is Folded - crisp fold line

Symmetric

Use Symmetric definition to stitch a piece with pair definition to its twin. Notice that once the Symmetric definition is enabled, the Flipped definition is also enabled automatically.

16. Front pattern piece is defined as Pair | 17. The Center Front stitch defined as Symmetric

18. Center Front stitch on 3D

Auto Drill

Use Auto Drill to define 4 drills (buttons) as a Fish-eye Dart.

1. To use the Auto Drill function you must have 4 buttons on a piece.
2. Select the Stitch tool.
3. Left-click the first button.
4. Left-click the second button (next button in a clock wise manner).
5. Right-click the second button.
6. Left-click the third button.
7. Right-click the third button.
8. Left-click the fourth button.
9. Check the Auto Drill option.

19. Fish-eye dart marked by buttons

20. Fish-eye dart defined as Auto Drill

21. Fitted blouse with Fish-eye dart

Auto Pleat

Use Auto Pleat to define an internal segment as a center fold line of a knife pleat.

1. To use the Auto Pleat function you must have an internal segment on a piece (at least one end point of the internal segment has to be on the external contour).
2. Select the Stitch tool and stitch the internal segment as a stand alone stitch.
3. Check the Auto Pleat option.
4. Set the width of the pleat in the width field.
5. To fold the pleat in the opposite direction check the flipped option.

Notes:

• Note that the Pleat Tool in PDS is not related at all to the Auto-Pleat feature in the 3D.
• The pleat's width relates to the point that is on the contour, or in case both points are on the piece contour, to the first created point (to view internal points numbers see View And Selection)
• The Auto Pleat function does not support overlapping pleats (pleat on pleat).
• Pleat shape - Setting a stitch with the auto-pleat, will always generate a V shape pleat (the point that is on the contour is the large part of the pleat). In case both point are on the piece contour, the first point created will be the large part of the pleat.

In the following example you can view the steps of creating multiple pleats in the front piece of a top.

22. 5 knife pleats with width of 1 cm were created using the Pleat tool	23. Pleat's line are hidden and internal segment were created in the center fold line of the pleats.	24. Internal segments were stitched as stand alone stitches	25. Stitch Properties for the internals
26. Pleats on 3D window	27. Top with pleats

Edge Force

The Edge Force value is a force of specified weight (in grams) pulling the cloth in its direction. It is very sensitive and any slight change made to it can affect the simulation.
Edge Force value is affected directly by the Cloth Physical Attribute of Stretch and any change in this value will affect the way Edge Force is going to work. As the Stretch value grows higher the Edge Force value needed in order to pull the cloth also grows higher.

• The Edge Force range is 0 to 5.
• In most cases, Edge Force value of 1 is enough to pull Lycra cloth, see example number 1.
• Use values of 0.1 to 1 to pull down hem line or pull up a waistband, see example number 2.
• Use values of 2 to 5 to for underwear and swimsuits, see example number 3.

Tight undershirt made of Lycra.

28. Edge Force value in the hem is 0 (Zero)

29. Edge Force value in the hem is 1

Notice the Trouser's waistband.

30. Edge Force value in the waistband is 0 (Zero)

31. Edge Force value in the waistband is 0.5

First two images are of a bathing suit with Stretch resistance value of 100 and... variable Edge Force values.

32. Edge Force = 5, Stretch = 100

33. Edge Force = 3, Stretch = 100

The last two images are of a bathing suit with Edge Force value of 2 and... variable Stretch resistance values.

34. Edge Force = 2, Stretch = 100

35. Edge Force = 2, Stretch = 500

Stitch Const

This value is meant to maintain the stitch in its original length. As high as this value is, the less the stitch is going to be stretched during the simulation process. In other words, the stitch will ‘want’ to stay in its original length as high as this value is.

• Stitch Const range is 0 to 400.
• Stitch Const value of 100 is a good standard for Double Needle.
• If you don’t set a Stitch Const value, the stitch will get the power of the fabric (the Stretch power – X or Y - the highest one between them).
  

In the following example, the Lycra undershirt neckline and armhole were simulated with Stitch Const value of 0 (zero) VERSUS with Stitch const value of 150.

36. Stitch const = 0, Stretch = 300

37. Stitch const = 150, Stretch = 300

Shrinkage

The amount of shrinkage you assign to the stitch. Type in % of shrinkage from relax to finished. Example: 8 to 4 cm is 50% shrinkage. Use this value in cases where you need:

1. The stitch to cause the cloth to pucker, in this case use positive value of 1 to 100 percents.
2. To achieve the effect of Lettuce Hem, in this case use negative value of -60 to -1 percents.

Note: This value is affected by the Stitch Const value. If the Stitch Const value will be high then the Stitch will have more ‘Power’ to shrink. If the Stitch Const value will be low, the stitch will not have ‘Power’ to shrink.

In the following example you can see an undershirt with shrinkage effect.

38. The marked line in the pattern piece is suppose to shrink

39. The simulated shrinkage effect

3D Folding

The 3D folding properties affects the way a piece is folded before starting the 3D simulation.
we use this feature to match the piece shape to a special mannequin posture or to fold a cuff, a collar or lapel.
The 3D Folding is applied to stitches and sometimes there's a need to add a stitch especially in order to fold a piece.

Quick Guide For 3D Folding
In the following image you can see the already finished jacket with the lapel that was folded using the 3D Folding option.

1. First draw the folding line on the front piece of the jacket.
2. Now define a stand alone stitch on the folding line.
3. Select the stitch and define it as 3D folding by checking the Fold Line option.
4. Select Folding Side, Left Side or Right side of piece.
5. Select Folding Direction, In or Out or Z.
6. In the Angle field type 160, which means that the lapel will be folded in 160 degrees to the bodice.

40. Folded Lapel.

41. Create a single stitch on the fold line, or "roll" line

42. Notice the arrows to point in the folding direction

43. 3D Folding Properties

3D Folding Options

The 3D folding properties affects the way a piece is folded before starting the 3D simulation, we use this feature to match the piece shape to a special mannequin posture or to fold a cuff, collar.
The 3D folding Properties are applied on stitches, to change those setting use the select stitch tool and select a stitch.

View the effects of each setting in the examples below

Define a stitch on an internal line

Select Folding Side, and Folding Direction

Piece will fold in towards the body

Piece will fold out away from the body, example, a lapel. the Z axis option is used to simulate cloth on “extreme” postures like sitting mannequins

Fold Direction Right

Angle- Angle of the folded part

Result